Saturday, 29 October 2011

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What should be in your life next spring ... as told by Paris fashion week

The French's contribution to the Spring Summer 2012 ready to wear collections was exactly what we have come to expect from Paris, strong, elegant tailoring, majestic evening gowns and luxurious wearable pieces.  Balenciaga brought us tailored cigarette trousers and structured shorts with voluminous blouses and fabulous tailored, panelled  jackets.  Phoebe at Celine continued with her strong run at the house with another classic collection, sending suede and leather panelled vests, structured leather jackets and wide leg trousers down the runway.  Her suede court shoes were, well delicious!  Where Celines and Balenciaga's collections see us very much in dark and jewel toned colours and wrapped up next year, Karl has a very different outlook on 2012.  Chanel was like an under water snow palace, muted blue and pastel tones on skirts, blouses and jackets.  There was also some sugary strappy summer dresses with feathers and sequins. Very pretty and very Chanel, just lovely.  Chloe brought us some very nice separates in peaches and tan's, including some very very desirable day dresses and an embroidered shirt that is very much on my Spring Summer wish list. Bill Gaytenne is clearly better at ready to wear then couture as this collection was a vast improvement on his first for Dior.  There were some very nice evening gowns in translucent chiffon with black detailing, but I have to say it ....they were very Gallianoesque.  From traditional Dior to the very modern Dries Van Noten.  There was mix matched patterns of photographic and floral prints on structured skirts, shirts and jackets, my favourite being a fab grey, wool, masculine tailored jacket with no arms and a black tie on the front, (Christmas coat alert!!)  Haider Ackermann and Lanvin both brought us very futuristic shapes and masculine tailoring that while very on trend, were still very very wearable and Alber didn't disappoint on the Frock front either... well he never does, does he.  Gareth Pugh however took futuristic to another level. I believe this guy is the only (BRITISH) designer today that is breaking the artistic boundaries of fashion after the loss of Alexander McQueen.  Dramatically high necks, leather trousers, and amazing panelled boots and dresses, I  think best described as alien dominatrix.  Ricardo brought us tailored cowboys in black and pastels with drain pipe pants, buttoned up shirts and Americana infused tail coats.  Jewellery included wantable, big, chunky Navajo necklaces paired with modern cowboy bolo ties, a look I can see transferring to the High street.  Isabel Marant was simply cool and will be the festival wear of the trendy kids next year.  Big stripey new age traveller jumpers, khaki swing coats and embroidered summer jackets, amazing jeans and very cool t shirts that I no doubt will be pining for come March next year. Jean Paul Gautier's collection was very Parisian, Gothic rockabilly and gave me a lot of ideas on how to style up some classic pieces that I may already have in my wardrobe for summer next year.  
So the big rumour on the grapevine during the week was is Marc going to go to Dior??? Well if this was the designers swan song at Vuitton he certainly didn't disappoint.  The collection was very upper east-side meets fairytale princess with detailed embroidery, amazing laser cut white prom dresses, evening jackets and classy two pieces.  There was also Kate, some classic see through speedy bags and classic metal toed pointed court shoes.  Amazing.  
Sarah Burton showed us that she was very much part of McQueen even before Lees tragic death.  Her clothes were very much traditional McQueen, tight structured skirt suits (Paris Spring Summer 2012 outfit of choice) sculptured fitted dresses with dramatic ruffles and impeccable detail.  Fab.  Roland Mouret, Miu Miu and Stella McCartney all had a vintage feel, simple girly lace, 40's tailoring and Pyjamas at McCartney.. also on the wish list, sees the vintage crowd covered for next summer.  Valentino brought us some very nice lace dresses and a lovely baggy jumper that caught my eye.. and I loved the hair... definitely a must for when the sun comes back. Finally Pillato knocked it out the park with YSL classic tailoring, in a pallet synonymous with YSL.  "Back to College" preppy outfits and some amazing party frocks.  
Paris ...Bravo... Tres Magnifique!

All Pictures by Vogue.CO.UK

Sunday, 9 October 2011

London Baby .... Spring / Summer 2012

London Fashion S/S2012 was a welcome breath of fresh air after the structured seriousness of the New York shows (with the exception of Betsey Johnson!).  Acne offered their usual simple tailored aesthetic with leather and suede in tan's oranges and powder blue.  Ashish was a technicolour of sequin flowers on everything from shorts to gillets and fabulous Dr Martins stuffed full of daisy's. The flower theme was continued by both Basso and Brooke and Mary Katrantzou but used on structured cocktail dresses and evening gowns.  Both Burberry and Giles brought their A game with two fantastic collections that no doubt will influence the high street for the majority of 2012 and were so good I will no doubt be speaking about them again in the near future. House of Holland, Jonathan Saunders and Mulberry all went down the pastel road but in very different directions... however I do think Mint is definitely the new Black! Louise Grey, Roksanda Ilincic, Sass and Bide and Matthew Williamson all went with full on colour, Williamson being influenced by a burning sunset, and Ilincic taking inspiration from Jill Sander's collection from last year (just saying).  Topshop Unique channelled Elizabeth Tailor in Cleopatra and brought us some fabulous dresses that will no doubt be gracing a few Liverpool dance floors in the near future, I hope!  Finally Dame Viv didn't really blow me away with her ready to wear collection but her Red Label collection was amazing and full of old classics with new twists.  An altogether triumphant week for London!

All pictures by Vogue.UK