Wednesday, 10 April 2013

Milan Autumn - Winter 2013/2014.

Milan was delightful!

Gucci continued with the 1950's movie heroine drama that we have seen this season previously in New York and Paris only with a ladylike aesthetic with a fetish twist.  Dark powerful dressing!  Giannini summed it up best herself backstage when she said "The Gucci woman seduces with her dangerous femininity.  She is steely yet sexy, defining her discipline with femme fatale vices." There were some especially fabulously dramatic coats and evening dresses!

Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron at Gianfranco Ferre had one message, Twist it, Turn it, Work it, Belt it. Futuristic tailoring and some amazing single pieces. DiscoFashionArt loves this collection. 

I know Giorgio Armani is a legend of epic proportion but his collections over the past few years (sometimes including the couture Prive) have let me down a little, I just don't find them current.  I know he designs for a certain type of lady but I would love to see him take his signature tailoring and lend it to a more of a Celine type aesthetic! Any who this collection was only different because there was some pieces that were actually quite wearable.  Just a few mind.  I know its a brave move slating the great but its just our opinion!

Emporio Armani was a little bit more light and young with a pastel pallet of greys, pistachio and blush.  But again nothing to write home about.

Ermanno Scervino added to the 'Hitchcock - movie heroine' trend with his modern but lady like collection.  Various shades of grey for tailored dresses and dress coats worn with fur stoles and headscarves.  The collection then moved into a more earthy colour scheme with trousers and sculptured knitted jumpers. (which I will definitely be putting on my Christmas jumper wish list)Ending with the most ethereally pretty evening gowns.  Just Lovely.

Salvatore Ferragamo brought us clothes that work in a modern day wardrobe.  Architecturally precise separates with a definite hint of the 60's.

Missoni showed laid back sports luxe in a fabulous array of modern patterns and knits that we have come to know and love the label for.  Loving the tights! 

Then there was, new to our fashion radar, Genny who brought us modern tailoring with a modern spin.  Definitely one to watch we think.

Dolce and Gabbana showed a collection full of historical reference, with dresses made of fresco prints and religious imagery with ornate detailing.  The collection also had tailored separates and dresses in greys and hounds tooth not unlike something our own queen would wear.  An altogether regal theme.  As per usual the accessories were amazing!

Marni brought us a more masculine collection this season.  It was a sartorial take on 'Where the wild things are'. Another fur filled Milan show, this time the fur being used graphically. Our favourite aspect of the show being the peplum stoles that brought an elegant feminine touch to masculine shapes.

Emilio Pucci went back into their archives to revive their 'Otto' print and brought it back into modern day with a touch of sex and drama.  Another show touching on the 60's vibe, especially those AMAZING over the knee bots and those shoes. To Die!

Aquilano.Rimondis show was dark but playful like a Gothic Disney princess.

Jil Sander whose show proved that she is the queen of minimalism was a joy to watch.  The lady herself is back at the helm after the departure of Raf Simons to Dior and it is a welcome return.  Super refined and luxurious.

Roberto Cavalli was on a medieval kick with chain mail effect dresses and a regal pallet of monochrome and red.

Bottega Veneta put an emphasis on volume and architectural pleats with a heavy dose of art on the side.

Trussardi was expensive with a cool attitude taking London as its inspiration and after the Olympics and the Golden Jubilee who can blame them... Moschino did it too!

Versace or should I say Donatella brought us the 'Vunk' .. That's Versace meets Punk .. see what she did there (enter rolling tumble weed here) and it was, well, Vile.  Honestly like donatella does the dock road.  Sorry not for DiscoFashionArt.

Blumarine also brought us a pastel pallet for winter.  Especially loving the leather shirts!

Iceberg - an emphasis on clean design.

Fausto Puglisi most definitely brought the edge to Milan Fashion Week and the presentation filled a void that Versace used to fill. A modern, youthful collection of bold statements.  Loving the tartan and monochrome paired together.  We could so see RiRi in this!

Etro brought us print for a digital era.

Sportsmax  brought us serious wear ability. Cubism was definitely an inspiration.

Lady like fashion at the Raoul presentation. Again with the 60's vibe.

British Heritage at Moschino.

MSGM was prints galore.

DSquared was bright, big and all that Jazz! A 1940's party where Katherine Hepburn met Bugsy Malone.

1950's hemlines and elegance at Ports 1961.  The socks and shoes trend continued, only you'll need to be a skinny minny for this one, mid calf length is hardly flattering.

Finally Prada set a high bar.  The collection had all the normal signature Prada pieces and effects including the over sized bags and belted waists but the house brought the clothes back to basics with clean modern tailoring.  There were new elements too with a play on skirt lengths and panelling and inserts of sequins and different textures.  A refreshing collection of effortless glamour.

Pictures edited from

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