Saturday, 16 March 2013

London Autumn - Winter 2013/14

London Fashion Week was a jam packed, sartorial hurricane.  Here are my picks of the best of the week for Autumn Winter 2013/14.  The grunge feel has definitely trickled through from New York but with twists that could only come from our native isle! 

Aminaka Wilmont - A very powerful collection that manipulated proportion and texture.  A dark mood showed through a limited pallet and there was a definitely a don't mess with me attitude.  My favourite were the all in one wool suits with the origami like folds.


Maria Grachvogel hasn't excited me since Posh donned her catwalk several years ago! What a dowdy collection! Unlike Tata Naka whose ready to wear presentation could not have been more colourful and interesting if it tried!  A modern take on 50's Rockabilly but with 90's inspired prints.  Very kitch but very catchy.


Ostwald Helgason's collection was too a joy of colour and youthfulness.  Blues and golds in the way of tailored jackets, slim fitting trousers and interesting sweatshirts with shirts worn under.  Also some fabulous baseball caps! (I'm telling you caps are in!)


Then Ashish.  His is on of the shows I look forward to most during LFW and he still hasn't let me down - who said sequins had to be practical?  Ashish named his collection simply 'street style'  and it literally was.  Glamorous by default not design this collection seen the designer move slightly away from his trademark sequins but he still definitely kept the humour.



Meadham Kirchhoff opened the show with monochrome vinyl breasted coats and sailor suits , best described as sinister yet pretty in a strange way only MK can pull off.  There were some very wearable 90's skirt suits that wouldn't have been lost on Cher Horowitz's more grungy cousin, accompanied by over the new black school socks...very clueless meets the Munsters. The collection is in my opinion a lot more wearable then past collections and I think its safe to say the boys are settling down into making sell able clothes. 


Nasir Mazhars presentation was as usual a little bit bonkers but hey how boring would life be if we were all the same! If the whole population was actually on ketamine in London's swinging sixties instead of LSD, this is what the wardrobe would have been.  However I do really love the velvet navy, blue balloon sleeve top!


Twenty8Twelve showed a simple yet polished collection.  Fabulous layering and pretty dresses.  All very Olivia Polmero I found but very wearable. 


Roksanda Ilincic's collection See's us in candy floss pink for winter, with mint greens and lilacs, a breath of fresh air we only use associate with spring or summer.  There was also something celestial about the collection, a bit like a sinister fairytale with haunted characters.


James Long usually delivers a men's collection that women actually would like to wear, that's why he started his womenswear, because he knows what the UK young stylish woman wants to wear.  His collection was a blue heavy outing of cozy jumpers, cropped leather and fur jackets, untucked shirts and loose pleated skirts.  A little bit Prim and Punk!



Simone Rocha was pretty in pink.  Simone does London girl well, she may wear a pretty dress but she wears with glitter brogues - this year they came in pink and gold glitter.

 
Nicole Fahri brought us a collection of pieces that remind me of the things you usually want to steal from your boyfriends wardrobe.  A menswear aesthetic just for women. 


Pam Hogg produced her usual wacky collection.  Among the craziness however were some really wearable pieces including a long beige trench with white epaulets and for the daring our of us a black catsuit with patent panels. 


JW Anderson has not only busy with his collections for Topshop, he has produced a wonderful collection for autumn winter that once again blurs the line between boy and girl in a way only JW Anderson can do.


Then for the first time in London - Mr Tom Ford, and what a collection it was.  Tom's world is one not many people inhabit, its expensive, glossy and very polished.  The collection was cross cultural taking influences from many different countries.  Like London the pieces were multi cultural.


Giles Deacon brought us an enchanting vision of heaven and hell.


For our girly girls who usually rock a Herve Leger to don the dance floors of playground may appreciate the next designer who is new to my LFW radar.  Kristian Aadnevik brought us some very pretty evening dresses.



Then the power house Burberry Prorsum which was full of romanticism and wonder.


Erdem was a darker offering this season.  The use of black made this collection one of the houses best. 


A bigger collection from Christopher Kane thanks to the financial backing of PPR - Kane is most definitely on the road to fashion super stardom.  A collection full of his old signatures, the kilts,  the velvet dresses and the floral applique. Loving the camo, again another trend I'm spying for the coming autumn winter. 


Cecile - one bad ass collection.  Some fabulous pieces and tshirts!! Damn I do like a good tshirt!  I hope someone in Liverpool picks this collection up.



Michael Van der Ham went darker with this collection, taking his inspiration from vintage couture and marrying it with the idea of deconstruction and worn out clothes which accounts for the holes. I must admit I'm a little undecided on this collection and I have liked his previous stuff! Was this one collection to many for Mr Van Der Ham?


Huishan Zhang brought us a very simple, delicate collection.  Very pretty and very wearable.


Clean cuts from Pringle of Scotland.  The great British design house stays at the forefront of fashion with its latest collection.


Antonio Berardi brought us capes capes and more capes!  A celebration of the female form via long line blazers, those folding tabbards that rolled down the body and short little kilt skirts.

 
Peter Pilotto brought us a show inspired by Spanish renaissance and not forgetting the signature print puffa jacket.


Marios Schwab - Pure Red Carpet Hotness!


Matthew Williamson injects summer into winter.


Mary Katrantzou was inspired by landscape and the shadowy black and white photography of Edward Steichen, Clarnce White and Alfred Stieglitz.  Simply Devine.


Topshop Unique brought us an updated look at nineties fashion.


McQ is rebellious but refined.  The label now under Alistair Carr previously of Pringle really has come into it's own after a tremendous London Fashion Week Debut last season and the flag ship store opening in London earlier this year.  You can see all the McQueen underpinnings and hallmarks coming together in a more youthful way.

 
Vivienne Westwood Red Label - interesting clothes for interesting people.
 
Wistles ready to wear was a youthful collection full of wish list pieces. Like a little grunge army, not something you would think of when thinking of Whistles but a delightful change. Again that blue camo! Love.


Mulberry - making trousers the new tights! Autumnal floral's and woodland creatures.


Holly Fulton brought us a punk rock attitude for confident girls who like hanging with the band.


Its as simple as this - Preen make gorgeous clothes.



Rihanna for River Island... Well the girl does the 90's well, and at the minute, that's hot! Unfortunately its already flew off the shelves, your going to have to go to Ebay for this one!

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