Saturday, 21 September 2013

New York Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2014... Part 2

3.1 Phillip Lim
Spring / Summer for Phillip Lim's main line was simple and modern tailoring for the modern woman.  Shapes were elementary, double pleat fronted skirts in various coloured leathers, some single coloured some multi, wide, straight leg shorts and three quarter length trousers either plain or with sporadic fringed detailing. The collections main feature was the geographical inspired embroidery on jackets and laid over chiffon sweatshirts.  The shoes were also simplistic but effective with quirky clear plastic uppers.  

Hanako Maeda launched Adeam in 2011 and since then nature and biology has had a massive influence on her designs.  This collection featured a shibori effect pattern which is created by manipulating hydrangea cells viewed under a microscope.  The collection was original and pretty.  

Brandon Sun
Modern, clean and edgy ready to wear.  Especially loved the woven leather top.  His Japanese roots really shine through. 

Calvin Klein Collection
Francisco Costa truly is the king of minimalism.  He called this collection ‘elevated deconstruction’  and it featured raw hems and wide stiff cuffing.  It started with a white palette but quickly moved into colour.  Later in the collection Francisco introduced fringing on hems and seams.  

Carolina Herrera 
Carolina done what she does best, pretty ladylike dresses for grown up princesses.  Extremely elegant, it was an evening – centric collection destined for the red carpet. 

Creatures of Comfort
A laid back, cool ready to wear collection.

Cushine et Ochs
Lots of binding, belting and strapping made for a very sultry evening collection.  We especially loved the caped blazer.

Custo Barcelona
Psychedelic gorgeousness!  An artistic amalgamation of textures and colours from the Barcelona based label.  

Cynthia Rowley
The collection, was a celebration of the designer's sporty-meets-artsy roots. A single lipstick-red tulip appliqué was positioned on the hip of a white silk-cotton ball gown with a halter neckline, and wetsuits were printed with digital floral motifs. A vignette of skirts and tops in black, white, and blush pink were embroidered with Swedish-looking designs, adding to the arts-and-crafts feel of the clothes.  An altogether refreshing, youthful collection.

An enchanting first show at NYFW for the label full of unexpected volumes and enchanted embellishment.  

Diesel Black and Gold
Denim and leather remain the building blocks of the Diesel blueprint, that's never going to change, it’s who the diesel girl is. However for Spring, the jeans have a more generous fit (slouchy at the hips, with deep rolled cuffs at the ankle and strategic fraying here and there), and the leather motorcycle jackets were softer in pastels icy blue and baby pink. Head designer Andreas  Melbostad liked the concept of a "courageous fragility," and he played the brand staples against more delicate pieces, like cotton eyelet dresses with handkerchief hems and camisoles cut from gauzy silk, he also adorned fun little dresses with shiny mirrored disks in geometric patterns. The collection definitely had a bohemian vibe, but not enough to scare away the tough-chic Black Gold customer.  We particularly liked the embellished leather skirt.  

Dion Lee 
This was the Australians first outing in NYFW and he for want of a better expression....smashed it.  There was 3-D pattern making, textile innovation, and rigorous, futuristic takes on body-con.  Fashionably futuristic.  

The 25th Anniversary Collection was full of old classics with a modern twist.  We love love love this collection.  

While all the other designers in NYFW seemed to channel  the 90s, DVF had another decade in mind.  The show was infused with glossy 70’s glamour, a topic Diane knows only too well and my word didn't it show.  All the 70’s staples were there, fabulous platform shoes, dungarees in sumptuous red silk with flared bottoms, culottes in various prints worn with bra tops and python skin prints on dresses, jackets, cigarette pants and laced bustier’.  Off course the staple wrap dress made an appearance but this occasion it was in an African print and the poster dress for the collection worn by the designer when she took her bow at the end was to die for.  A very cheerful collection and isn't it great to see Karen Elson and Naomi back on the catwalk!

Danielle Sherman really has done wonders for the ethical label started by Bonos wife Ali Hewson.  A lovely collection that finally takes the brand from a good doer label to an actual fashion force to be reckoned with

Elizabeth and James
The Olsen’s simply made a collection that allows girls to dress like the designers themselves.  Very Hip and very Happening!

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